Explore current challenges in your department.Understand the company's current best practices and procedures in your department.Main result: Implement and improve on existing processes and systems You'll gain a deep understanding of how things are done before working on improving the processes. ![]() The second month is when you'll dive deeper into the company, departments, and your team. Read through company material on products and services.Create a reference file with every direct report's position, strengths, and job responsibilities.Schedule one-on-one meetings with every direct report.Understand the details and nuances of the position.Understand the managerial role as part of the company's bigger objectives.Build relationships with key stakeholders.Get to know the new team and their strengths.Become familiar with the company culture, people in it, and products or services sold.Main result: Integrate into the company and develop a rapport with the team. You also want to establish yourself as an effective leader. This first month in your manager role is about getting as much information as possible about the new company and the people you work with. Make sure your plan helps further your company’s vision. The core belief that guides everything your company does. The template includes the following: 30-60-90-Day Plan Just click "Make a copy: to download your own. Here's a 30-60-90-day plan example that you can use as a template. This avoids micromanaging and empowers managers to take charge of their position. ![]() While a higher-up can create this plan, they'll likely ask new hires to do it as part of the onboarding process. The framework for the 30-60-90-day plan is the same whether you're a director, employee, or hold another role-only its content changes to reflect your position. What Exactly is a 30-60-90-Day Plan for Directors and Managers?Ī 30-60-90 plan for directors and managers is a roadmap of the goals and actions they'll focus on during their first 30, 60, and 90 days on the job. That way, you can hit the ground running. Let's look at an example plan you can use and do a deep dive into this valuable tool for managers. It's a guide detailing the goals and tasks you'll accomplish over the first three months on the job. Will you be able to manage your team well? What does the boss expect of you? How will you know if you're doing a good job in this new position?įor many, the answer is a 30-60-90 plan. You just became a manager and are excited about the new opportunities (and salary bump) that await you.īut underneath the excitement is often an undercurrent of anxiety and uncertainty.
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It should get a minimum of 15km at full speed on a 10 AH battery, and will probably do 20km. it will have enough power to pull you from a stop easily without kicking off, and can do 27-30kph. the 3 speed chain ring won't matter.Ī Basic 36 volt, 350w geared kit (Like the MXUS) will meet your expectations if you have flat terrain. You may need to change the shifter and derailer for a 7 speed to get smooth shifting. Here are pictures of my bike with a ruler, while some pics the ruler doesn't look like it is in line with the fork etc it should be. ![]() Also I am not worried about local wattage/power laws. I noticed that most of the batteries other people sell are just 2-3 C so I figured it can't be that important, or can a lower C rating performance loss be moderated by buying a higher voltage kit? I don't plan to do any over-locking of my kit I will instead just buy a more powerful kit if needed. ![]() I saw on this web site the seller really goes on about the importance of "C" Rating of the battery.ĭoes this really matter for Hub motor kits or is it important for really hardcore builds? Or is it more important for mid-drives? I noticed most rear hub motors have 6 and some offer 7 if requested.Īnd what about the fact I have 3 sprockets on my crank?Īlso does it matter if I get a rear hub with a disc break and not use it, I was thinking I could take it to a bike shop and get the rest installed for a working hydraulic breaks later. One of my most important questions is since I have 9 sprockets/gears? on my current rear wheel, does it matter if I buy a hub motor kit with less sprockets? (check my skydrive url pics below) I do plan to give my self a leg push to start rolling and a crank when I start at lights, this should be enough for a direct drive hub? So I am thinking it might just be more worth while to get a cheaper direct drive of larger watts to make up for the lost torque of a geared hub. Have been thinking of going geared hub but they seem to cost a fair bit more and not many sellers about locally there is one seller on AU eBay but his listing has currently gone. My rear tyre has got a few small holes where I think it's been allowing flats so I think I could kill two birds with one stone and get a tyre+tube rear motor hub kit. I am now really am thinking geared or direct drive rear hub motor, because it will be safer with my aluminium frame and because after changing my rear tube it went flat again after one ride so I am think it's a sign that I should go with a rear setup. Then I read mid-drive kits are noisey, and also a bigger job to install, while I plan to only ride on the road so noise can only matter so much I do like the idea the of being discreet, but any positive feedback on going down mid-drive route would easily help make it the choice of path. ![]() Then I thought mid-drive Cyclone or GNG electric kit, so i get more torque, this kit looks like a pretty good deal. The forks are SR Suntour NEX 4610 V2, seems to get a lot of hits on google. Originally I was thinking of going front geared/direct fork hub, but I found my bike completely fails the magnet steel fork strength test, the forks are pretty chunky aluminium though. I want to electric my Giant Farrago 2009 M sized Hybrid bike and I am having trouble with which type of motor technology I should use. Anything above that would just be a nice plus I think. 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